All Hikes Lead to Temples

There are two constants in life (in Korea):

1. There will always be another mountain to hike.

2. There will always be a temple somewhere around that mountain.

Buddhism has a deep-rooted presence in Korean history, culture, food (like temple food!), architecture, symbolism, and more! Roughly 23% of Koreans are Buddhist. When you visit the temples, you are bound to hear the metronome-like taps of a drum, monks chanting, and otherwise, the natural silence of peaceful mountains around you. (Of course, that's not always the case! For example, the seaside temple, Haedong Yonggungsa, echoes the crashing waves of the sea. Bongeunsa Temple sits beside a busy road in Gangnam, right across from massive COEX Mall, though you are unlikely to hear any of the urban traffic inside the walls!)

Sometimes I'll do a hike for the express purpose of seeing a particular temple, but I equally love stumbling upon an unexpected sight!

Here are a few adventures!

There are many Facebook groups for expats in Korea, and they have been incredibly valuable for meeting new people and finding (or giving away) items. A year ago, I responded to a posting for a free backpack, took a detour after picking it up, and discovered this, Yaksasa Temple, on a trail in the mountains.

The art of every temple is stunning! Like me, you may find yourself admiring the craftsmanship and talent of the original artists. Beyond that, I don't know who is responsible for the upkeep and maintenance of the architecture and colors, but they deserve praise and appreciation, as well!

This is a peaceful scene at Bongeunsa Temple, a beautiful and popular worship site across the street from COEX Mall.

Ben and I walked around this temple, and upon finding this spot (the same one from the previous photo), he grabbed a prayer mat and took a moment to meditate. The roads and mall crowds were distant. Instead, there was only the brush of wind and faint knocks of drums from the monks.

Prayers hang above this site of worship.

Temple stays are very popular in Korea. Because of COVID-19, they are sometimes canceled or limited.

These candles are lit to purify and cleanse us and the temple environment.

Paper prayers greet you when you ascend the steps.

While hiking short but scenic Ansan Mountain, we stumbled upon Bongwonsa Temple. Like many Korean temples, it was relocated (originally built during the Shilla Dynasty in 889 A.D. and relocated to its current location in 1748). The lotus flowers, as you would imagine, attract many visitors!

We were here in the summer, but I can only imagine the amazing view of the spring!

Moving faaar south, the city of Yeosu puts the "south" in "South Korea." This is Hyangiram Hermitage, a temple on the cliffs. Waterfront view!

Because this temple attracts many tourists, there were quite a few vendors. At a couple shops, you could buy these golden leaves and write a personal message.

Here are a few pics of the fine details around the seaside temple.

As you climb the steps to Hyangiram, these statues remind you three key evil "don't

An overlook from Hyangiram Temple

If you travel north a couple hours, you'll reach this towering Buddha at Seoraksan National Park. In the foreground are ceiling tiles you can purchase to write your own messages.

There are quite a few temples tucked around Namhansanseong (the fortress in the mountain, shielding the emergency palace in Seoul). This is one of those temples. As is customary in temples, homes, and some restaurants, you must remove your shoes before entering.

Another area of this temple in Namhansanseong. As you walk around, you'll hear the metronomic knocking of drums and the soothing chants of a monk in prayer. It's difficult to tell where the sounds come from, as they echo around the small temple site. They also echo from the speakers placed around the walls of the buildings, giving you the sense that the prayer is all around you.

Finally, here is the temple I have visited most. It is Inwangsan Temple, embedded into Inwangsan Mountain, on which the ancient Seoul City Wall runs. This is where I begin my hike each day, first trudging up the steep stairs. These buildings are all layered into the mountain. (Perhaps this sounds familiar from this story I wrote about journeying and reflection.)

I once took a moment of reflection and meditation at Seonbawi, a natural rock formation that attracts people seeking prayer or peace. This is a photo from that moment. While I sat and journaled, a Korean woman approached me and pointed toward the sky. We struggled to understand each other for a few minutes until I finally handed her my phone with my translation app open. She typed one word, which translated to "partial," at which time I realized she was trying to tell me there was a partial eclipse happening.

At home during the last big eclipse, my friend had taught me that a camera will capture an eclipsing sun, as seen in the bottom horizon of this pic. (Disclaimer: It's not always a good idea to take a direct photo of the sun with any sort of camera.) I showed the woman the little sun shape in the photo, and she was so excited that she asked me to snap a photo with her phone, too.

I loved and appreciated her eagerness to share that there was an eclipse. Even though we didn't understand each other and felt frustrated at times, she didn't give up! It made that day a little extra special.

Korea is constantly teaching me something new about humanity.